Graves

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Graves is Bordeaux's oldest vineyard and was planted in the first centuries of Roman occupation on the outskirts of Burdigala (the Roman name for Bordeaux). Graves is the only AOC in Bordeaux to bear the name of its soil: "Las Graber Bordèus" literally " The Gravels of Bordeaux. Graves is named after the soil which lies beneath the vines as Graves means gravel in French. This gravel is the result of glaciers from the Ice Age, which can be up to 3 metres thick and is finer than elsewhere in Bordeaux.

The gravels are full of quartz, ochre, white, red and pink quartzites, jasper, agate, flint and lydian which can be seen scattered on the surface of the soil between the vines. The gravel reflects the sunlight, redistributing its heat onto the bunches of grapes which helps their ripening. It also offers excellent drainage. The soil is comprised of alluvial deposits carried by the Garonne River from the Pyrenees Mountains and the ground underneath is almost pure sand or hardpan (iron-oxide cemented sand). Graves is protected from poor weather by the dense Landes pine forest and from heat by the breeze from the river, the Graves terroir has a perfect micro climate for growing vines.

Graves is considered to be the birthplace of claret as it was here that Bordeaux wine was first made and exported. The area is dotted with ancient remains dating back to neolithic times and there is a Gaulish fortified camp (Le Tuco Blanc) at Landiras. There is archaeological evidence to suggest that the Celts first cultivated the grape vine, Vitis vinifera, in Gaul. Grape pips have been found throughout France, pre-dating Greek and Roman cultural influence.

The Romans planted vineyards in Graves in the 1st century AD and there is still a vineyard there which dates back to these times named Liber Pater after the Roman god Liber (who was a precursor of Bacchus and Dionysus).

The Roman author Columella wrote enthusiastically of the wines from Graves, which he confirmed to have a long maturation potential. Columella's De Re Rustica is considered one of the most important works on Roman agriculture. Columella's work delves into the technical aspects of Roman viticulture, including advice on which soil types yield the best wine. He laid out precise details on how a well run vineyard should operate from the optimum breakfast of slaves to the yield of grapes from each parcel of land and the pruning practices to ensure those yields. Many modern elements of vine training and trellising can be seen in Columella's description of best practices.

Graves stretches for 31 miles along the Garonne River south east of Bordeaux and its suburbs to Langon. Its wines were popularised by Eleanor of Aquitaine, wife of Henry II of England in the 13th century. At that time the Medoc was merely a swamp! Graves is home to some prestigious châteaux: Château Pape Clement, founded in the late 1300s by the future Pope Clement V was the first named Château in all of Bordeaux and Château Haut Brion was the first recorded claret in London thanks to Samuel Pepys in 1663.

The appellation consists of 34 communes, although the viticultural activity is mainly concentrated in six: Portets, Illats, Cérons, Saint-Pierre-de-Mons, Langon and Landiras, covering an area historically referred to as Petits Graves
Unusually, Graves is famed for its reds, whites and sweet dessert wines - although red wines dominate the total production. The Graves AOC is used for both red and whites - the reds are rich, supple and elegant with notes of roasted earth, raspberries and cassis, violets, resin, spices, chocolate and vanilla. They have good ageing potential.

The whites are delicious and complex with the sémillon grape dominating the blend. They are rounded, powerful, elegant, aromatic and well balanced with notes of boxwood, grapefruit, passion fruit, honey, herbs and melon.

The Graves Superieur AOC is an appellation for sweet white wine covering the same area as Graves AOC. Their moderate sugar levels make them perfect as apéritifs, or as a complement to delicate sauce dishes or desserts. They have notes of citrus and candied zest, white peach, nectarine, and broom flowers.

Within Graves' northern boundaries lies the appellation Pessac Leognan, which was created in 1987 as a break away from Graves and is centred around the villages of Pessac, Talence and Léognan. This is the reason why châteaux such as Smith Haut Lafitte and Carbonnieux still bear the title of Grand Cru Classé du Graves though they now lie within the Pessac Leognan area.

In the south east of Graves lie the appellations of Sauternes, Barsac and Cérons which make the famous sweet dessert wines. Sauternes is home to Château d'Yquem and lies in the hollow where the river Garonne and its tributary the Ciron converge. Sauternes flavours can include apricots, peaches, dried pineapple, nuts and honey and the finish lasts on the palate for a long time. Their colour is gold which darkens with time to a deep copper. The wine should be served chilled at around 11ºC.

Wines from Barsac have a lighter, fresher style, are more fruity and develop more quickly. These dessert wines have an incredible ability to age and continue to develop for decades. Cérons is a smaller appellation that is less well known and makes wines that are typically less sweet than Sauternes and more similar in style to Barsac with flavours of candied fruit, hazelnuts, citrus and exotic fruit. It also produces dry whites and red wines under the Graves AOC.

So, as you can see, Graves truly is the cradle of some superb Bordeaux wine!