
Clive Platman, The Birmingham Post, Food & Drink
"How A Career Change Lead To The Fine Wines of Bordeaux!"
Over the course of a year, I receive any number of wine samples and, to be totally honest, a goodly percentage are truly unremarkable and more than a few barely drinkable. It was therefore some surprise when Nick Stephens sent me a bottle of Chateau Chadeuil, a red Bordeaux for under a fiver.
Hitherto, I did not believe it possible to source a decent claret at this price, but this had a real “wow” factor. In fact, I was so impressed that I resolved to find out more about his mail-order business, “Bordeaux-Undiscovered”, and recently drove down to his premises not far from Tewkesbury, for a private tasting.
Nick, aged 52, has an impressive CV. He began his working life in hotel management, and later became a chef. Then, in a radical career change, he qualified as an accountant and, from there, set up a recruitment company which was bought out by Manpower in 2001.
So far, so good, but throughout his life, Nick has had a passion for wine, in particular classic Bordeaux. His interest was kindled by his wine-buff father, and honed during his spell in catering. The result is that he has been seriously collecting and investing in blue-chip claret over a number of years.
After visiting Bordeaux on a regular basis, Nick began to realise the sheer scale and potential of France’s largest fine-wine region. There was an almost limitless number of petits chateaux producing wine of extraordinary quality, yet at bargain prices. The problem was that these wines never crossed the Channel. Realising this gap in the market, he established his on-line mail-order company, Bordeaux-Undiscovered in March 2007.
His sister company, Interest in Wine was set up following an invitation to a valuer to assess his personal wine stock. The value had appreciated considerably and turned Nick on to the idea of wine as an investment.
The accountant in Nick compared Stock Market returns to the appreciation of his cellar. Between 1995 and 2003, the value of his wine investment increased by over 43%, compared to a fall in the FTSE by nearly 6%. Moreover, the last three Bordeaux vintages have produced substantially better return than stocks and shares.
Nick believes that people want simple investments. The problem is that hedge-funds are too remote. Once a year, the investor receives notice of his returns with little or no idea how it was achieved, or how much was taken by the investment company.
With a wine investment, why not receive a monthly newsletter, attend wine-tastings, or even visit the vineyards in Bordeaux? Not only is there a good return, but the investor could equally enjoy his personal returns.
Nick is confident that, if the portfolio selection is made from around 30 blue-chip Chateaux, plus a few flyers, there is little risk. With the burgeoning economies of China, India and Russia, demand for prestige wine has never been greater and, with a limited supply of great wine, investment in commodities, along with oil or gold, appears to a safe bet. Nick is now actively seeking investors.
The third string to his bow is a relatively unknown “vin de garage”, La Fleur Morange. It’s from a 2-hectare vineyard in St Emilion that was acquired by a cabinet-maker, Jean-Francois Julien, a man with attention to detail.
The attraction was the complex soil composition, which supported 100-year old vines. Hitherto, the wines were sold off to the local co-operative, but since 1999, have been carefully crafted to realise their true potential. Now much sought after, the 2005 received a near-perfect 19 from Jancis Robinson, and a five-star rating in the wine-buffs’ magazine, Decanter. Nick has sole UK distribution rights.
Recommendations
Chateau Chadeuil 2004 Bordeaux (£4.85). A cracking Merlot-based claret with delicious black-cherry and blackberry fruit, lifted with a hint of mocha. Supple, lithe and incredible value.
Chateau Puyanche 2004 Cotes de Castillon (£5.99). From a good-value appellation immediately to the east of St. Emilion. Still tight, just decant an hour or two before serving, to deliver delicious plum, leather and silky tannins.
Domaine de Ricaud 2006 Bordeaux Clairet (£5.75). Uncommon in the UK, a clairet is a deeper-hued rose, benefiting from long skin contact with the juice. Full on, this gave deep flavours of plum infused with spice.
Chateau Laures 2006 Entre-Deux-Mers (£6.75). A white-only AOC that, on song, can deliver a clean, crisp and purely herbaceous style, with great concentration of flavour. This ticks the boxes.
Seconde-Collard Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru Champagne (£16.49). A full-blown power-driven Pinot from a top grower in Bouzy, with flavours of brioche, raspberry, chocolate and breadcrumbs, shot through with keen minerality. Try, too, the Grande Reserve and Vintage 1998.
La Fleur Morange 2001 (£245 per case of 6). Right-Bank claret at the top of its game. Perfectly poised, it had menthol, black cherry, tobacco and leather, retaining cool freshness throughout. Still young, it’s immensely complex. A world-class wine, worth the asking-price.
Orders by the case only, plus delivery. For details visit www.bordeaux-undiscovered.co.uk, or www.interestinwine.co.uk. Telephone: 01562 851505.