Alan Hunter: Vino Club:
Mathilde de La Fleur Morange
I had the great pleasure of meeting Nick Stephens this week at his
home in Gloucestershire to learn more about his passion for wine,
particularly his speciality - Bordeaux. Also we found that we have a
similar background as we studied at the same food and wine academy. So
with this combined experience it is no surprise that wine and food
matching play an important role in Nick’s crusade to bring the best of
both worlds to his clients.
Nick has a mission not only to bring the Grand Crus of Bordeaux to
our attention, but also to seek out other classics from not so well
known producers that are just as dedicated and professional in their
wine craftsmanship, in the true Bordeaux style.
As I was due to dine with friends later that day I purchased a couple
of bottles of a St Emilion wine that Nick recommended - Mathilde de la
Fleur Morange and I was certainly not disappointed. The wine was
superb and you can read about it in much more detail, accompanied by a
tasting video here.
A deliciously decadent claret from St Emilion - 100% merlot from 50
year old vines. An explosion of deep crimson fruit subtly combined with
soft tannins makes this wine an experience not to be missed. Produced
by Veronique and Jean Julien under the expert guidance of brilliant
Narbonne based oenologist Claude Gros.
Taste on its own first and then match with a succulent rack of lamb
roasted slightly pink with rosemary and served with a light juniper
berry, redcurrant and red wine gravy. I will be creating this sauce for a
shoot dinner soon, so keep a look out. Simple sautéed potatoes with
softened caramelised red onion, also lightly minted peas would bothe be a
great companion to the lamb.
This wine has been highly praised by top wine expert, Robert Parker
and also Master of Wine and writer Jancis Robinson who called it "exotic
and hedonistic" (Jancis also endorsed the wonderful cuvee Ange I
discovered on my travels around the Languedoc region of southern France -
see feature)
The 'Mathilde' was amazing, the colour and texture of deep crimson
satin, packed with merlot fruit and so well balanced with subtle tannins
made this wine a beautiful example of St Emilion at its original best.
It had a depth that was not aggressive particularly at 14.5% alcohol,
but almost gentle on the palate then giving way to an explosion of
flavours - blackcurrants, red fruits with a hint of liquorice and faint
wisps of smoke. I loved it and so will you!
This wine is made by Veronique and Jean-Francois Julien from their
vineyards in St-Pey D'Amens, perched almost on the edge of St Emilion
and apart from most other surrounding St Emilion vineyards, truly a
unique spot. The soil here is so special that Nick has a sample of it in
a glass case in his study!
The price is under £20.00 per bottle and worth it! For those who are
price conscious I always say if you consider that you can enjoy 6
sensible size glasses or more from one bottle, then this represents
around £3.00 per glass - exceptional value for money here!
Alan Hunter: Vino Club: My Wines of the Week
Sancet, Cotes de Gascogne
I matched a couple of wines over the week-end at my Private Dining
Venue - The Vineyards - for a party of 18 guests. They had chosen a menu
beforehand so I had time to research some interesting wines to match
all the courses. I needed just a red and a white and as I had no
previous knowledge of their taste in wine, the choices had to flexible
and adaptable to suit the guests and the menu.
So with the assistance of Nick Stephens from Bordeaux Undiscovered we
chose - Sancet Cotes de Gascogne 2011. This white wine was bursting
with a combination of flavours of fresh melon, ripe pears and hint of
guava, also a lovely fragrant undertone of soft liquorice. Great with
both the Duck and Pork Fillet, the aubergine dish and the ravioli. If a
white was needed throughout, then this was the one!
This wine was an interesting blend of Ugni Blanc, Colombard, Gros
Manseng [the grape used to make the delicious wine from Jurançon] with a
10% support of Sauvignon Blanc. Everyone loved it, a very good wine
therefore a very good choice!
Chateau Chadeuil
The red wine Nick offered was a Merlot based claret from vineyards
situated just 18 miles north of the city of Bordeaux - CHATEAU CHADEUIL
2009.
Overseen by expert wine consultants that are responsible for the
inimitable Premier Grand Cru Classé St Emilion - Cheval Blanc - this
wine was exceptional value for money.
Again all enjoyed this wine so much with its lovely flavours of black
cherry, mocha, spice, plum, blackberries and a hint of vanilla, it
complemented well the main course dishes. This is so important for me to
make sure that the food and wine experience at The Vineyards is
complete.
Joanna Simon:
Cremant d'Alsace Joseph Pfister - a dry, creamy, fruity blend
of Pinots
Cremant d'Alsace Jean Baptiste Adam - bone-dry with an almond-brioche flavour
I recommended a Crémant d'Alsace with Asian food in my
first column, as a match for spicy Sichuan and milder Chinese
dishes, but I can't help feeling that Alsace's dry sparkling wine
remains quite a well kept secret in the UK. Too well kept in my
view, so I hope I'm about to change that.
Gary White: Chelsea and Fulham Wine Society
Château Mondain ‘Chevalier D’Albran’ (Bordeaux AoC) 2008
Tasted 03/09/11 with Beata, Sara and Jean Marc. 13.5%. £7.96 from Bordeaux Undiscovered. Blend M 70, CS and CF 15% each. Deeper purple colour. Great aromas of cassis, toasty oak and pencil box, the most classically claret-like of the four wines tasted. Dark fruits and hint of bell peppers and some vanilla in the mouth. Good grip, firm tannins, fruit slightly masked for now but long finish. Reminds me of a young Right Bank wine. Superb value. From 2013, 16.5 / 20.
Château Millet Lartigue (Bordeaux AoC) 2008
Tasted 03/09/11 with Beata, Sara and Jean Marc. 12% ABV. CS/M and CF. £7.99 from Bordeaux Undiscovered. Clear, mid-purple colour. Quite plummy nose but a little disappointing on the palate. Probably needs another year or so. From 2012, 13.5/20
Château Roc de Levraut (Bordeaux Superior AoC) 2009
Tasted 03/09/11 with Beata, Sara and Jean-Marc. 13.5%. 60/40 CS/M blend. £8.35 from Bordeaux Undiscovered. Clear, mid-purple colour, cassis on the nose, firmer tannins, well balanced and a good finish. Plenty of berry fruits on the palate. A well made wine, from 2012. 15.5/20
Château Loyasson (Bordeaux AoC) 2009
First of four wines I enjoyed from Nick Stephen's excellent Bordeaux Undiscovered
petit chateauz range. 13.5% ABV. Merlot /CabSauv 50/50 blend. £7.99 from Bordeaux Undiscovered. Clear, light ruby colour. Full, fruity nose, black fruits. Plummy on the palate, a rather short finish, with soft tannins. Seems to be from quite young vines made to be drunk young, perhaps. From 2010, drink now. 14/20
Spittoon: Andrew Barrow's Really Secret Event (17 wine bloggers/enthusiasts)
"Wines generously supplied by Bordeaux Undiscovered
Champagne Barnaut Secondé-Collard Blanc de Noirs Brut NV
This proved the star of the tasting if the conversation was anything to go by, but also view the mentions on Gastonomy Domaine "a lovely toasty nose and a crazily low price" and Wine Woman Song "has the nose of a much more expensive Champagne".
Adam Crémant d'Alsace Chardonnay Extra Brut NV
This I slipped on while nibbling on the canapés; all seemed divine.
The Rosés
Chateau Ballan-Larquette Bordeaux Clairet 2008 Totally flummoxed most when served blind...
Chateau Roques Mauriac Rosé 2005
The Whites
Chateau Laures Bordeaux Blanc, 2006, Entre Deux Mers
Fleur de Luze, Bordeaux 2007 This I enjoyed a few months ago as a great accompaniment to Scampi with Tartare Sauce - every bit as fresh and delicious now.
The Reds
Chateau Bel Air, Bordeaux Superieur, 2007
Chateau Peynaud Bordeaux Superieur, 2008"
